Viver and its history

Viver CS VC

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Viver is located in the north-west of the Alto Palancia region, in the province of Castellón. Its municipal area covers 44.9 km² and is crossed by the River Palancia and an extensive network of ravines that flow into it, most notably the Hurón Ravine. The altitude ranges from 560 metres in the town centre to 1,080 metres at Alto de Ragudo, a variation reflected in both the climate and the landscape.

The lower areas, close to ravines and watercourses, enjoy a mild Mediterranean climate, while the higher elevations experience harsher conditions. This climatic diversity creates a landscape characterised by Mediterranean scrubland, pine forests and traditional irrigated farmland.



In the beginning... 

Human presence in the territory of Viver dates back to very ancient times. The oldest remains discovered are palaeontological in nature: a molar of Equus Sübornensis found near El Rodeno hill, dated between 900,000 and 700,000 years before present. On the nearby Barracas plateau, at the site known as Fuente de los Borrachos, a fossil-bearing breccia containing faunal remains and a hand axe associated with a chronology of around 400,000 years was documented, making it the oldest known archaeological site in the municipality.

In 2024, an archaeological survey of the River Palancia terraces identified three concentrations of lithic industry associated with the Upper Palaeolithic at Revuelta de la Sartén, Cueva Negra and Las Quinchas.

The earliest known permanent human occupations date from the Chalcolithic period, during the 3rd millennium BC. During this time, the Sargal Caves were used as burial sites, probably linked to a nearby settlement that has yet to be located. From the 2nd millennium BC, corresponding to the Bronze Age, only one possible site is known, located at Peñas Rubias.

During the Iberian period, the number of settlements increased. These were generally small and situated on easily defensible hills. Up to five sites from this period are known, although all are poorly preserved. Among them are Santa Cruz, the Tower of Herragudo — destroyed during the Spanish Civil War — and Ojos del Prado I, where an interesting group of cart-ruts survives. Particularly significant is the site of San Roque, where research suggests the existence of a settlement spanning the transition between the Iberian and Roman periods.

The Roman legacy represents one of the most important chapters in Viver’s history. Since the early 17th century, numerous studies have documented an important epigraphic collection consisting of 162 known inscriptions, of which 83 survive today. Most are funerary inscriptions dating from the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, although monumental and religious examples also exist.

Among the preserved inscriptions, notable examples include the one embedded in the bell tower, distinguished by the decoration of its support, and another displayed on the façade of the Ethnological Museum, which testifies to the wealth of a prominent local family. Particularly remarkable is the votive altar discovered at Fuente de Morredondo, considered the only known example of its kind in the rural Valencian area.

Several studies have suggested the existence of an important communication route crossing Alto Palancia and linking Saguntum with Caesaraugusta (modern Zaragoza). Although no classical source explicitly describes this road, its existence is considered highly likely due to the historical importance of this natural corridor. The so-called Old Aragon Road, used at least since Iberian times, passed through Benafer and climbed onto the Barracas plateau following the Hurón Ravine. During the High Roman Empire, the route may have shifted towards the Ragudo hills, connecting with other roads coming from Llíria.

Recent archaeological investigations have confirmed Roman occupation at various locations within the municipality, especially at Fuente de Morredondo, where structural remains and ceramic materials have been found.

To date, no sites clearly attributable to Late Antiquity have been identified, although discoveries such as the silos at Rocha Palmera and historical references to anthropomorphic rock-cut tombs may belong to this period.

The Islamic period remains relatively little known. Its principal surviving monument is the River Tower (Torre del Río), excavated and consolidated between 2021 and 2022. Research dates it to the 12th–13th centuries and suggests it formed part of the defensive system of a nearby farmhouse settlement against Christian incursions into the area.

The first documentary reference to Viver appears in the 13th century in the Llibre dels Fets of James I. Everything suggests that the settlement was an Islamic farming community dedicated to agriculture and livestock breeding, dependent on Jérica and equipped with its own mosque.

Following the Christian conquest, the first lord of Viver was García Avuero, who received the settlement in 1235 as a grant from James I. During the 14th century, famine, the Black Death and warfare caused severe depopulation. To reverse this situation, on 12 April 1367 Don Juan Alfonso de Jérica granted a Carta Puebla (Charter of Settlement) aimed at attracting 200 new settlers, thereby consolidating the recovery of the community.

Growth continued throughout the 15th and 16th centuries. The original settlement, located on a rocky outcrop beside the Hurón Ravine, gradually expanded southwards. Some of Viver’s most representative historic buildings date from this period, including the Parish Church, the Convent of San Francisco, the Hermitage of Santa Bárbara and the Fountain of the Assumption.

A decisive moment came in 1540, when Emperor Charles I granted Viver the title of Villa (Town). This privilege gave the community the right to govern itself and administer justice within clearly defined boundaries. Combined with its position on the Royal Road of Aragon, this status stimulated both economic and urban development.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, a defensive system was established consisting of gateways, walls and the bell tower, which fulfilled both religious and military functions. Although inadequate against modern armies, these defences proved useful for controlling access to the town and protecting it from the more common threats of the period.

The 18th century was marked by intense agricultural activity. Towards the end of the century, the botanist Antonio José Cavanilles highlighted the extraordinary extent of Viver’s vineyards, noting that much of the landscape was covered with vines. Wine production became one of the town’s principal economic drivers, complemented by significant transport activity linked to the Royal Road.

The 19th century was shaped by several armed conflicts, from the Peninsular War to the Carlist Wars. During the First Carlist War, Viver gained particular importance as the head of a judicial district and was fortified once again. Fragments of these defences, including walls with visible loopholes, can still be seen in parts of the historic centre.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the expansion of viticulture led to the construction of numerous wine storage vats (cubos de vino), both private and communal. However, the Spanish Civil War proved especially traumatic for the town. In July 1938, bombing raids destroyed approximately 75% of the urban area, while the municipality was crossed by defensive positions belonging to the XYZ Line.

After the war, the National Service for Devastated Regions launched a major reconstruction programme, including new public facilities and urban reorganisation that transformed part of the town’s traditional appearance.

Since the 1960s, Viver has expanded towards the right bank of the Hurón Ravine, incorporating new residential areas on former agricultural land and gradually shaping the municipality as it appears today.

 
 


Max Aub and Viver de las Aguas

"The little water is made to run with the smell of the earth. The still water is frightening, the living ditch of Viver, unroll yourself, it catches you, it reaches you, it eats you alive, it swirls and swirls your eggs and your lichen as if it were your own tail!

 

"Field of almond trees"

 

Max Aub.

 

 

 

Max Aub spends the summer of 1935 in Viver, from June to September, as they used to do in the old days. In the summer of 1936 they did not come to Viver because Perpétua Barjau, Max's wife, was pregnant. She gave birth to Carmen, their third daughter, at the end of July. Before the summer of 1935 they had spent the summer at Las Arenas in Valencia. Their daughter Elena's lung disease was the reason why the doctors advised Max to stay in a drier climate and at a higher altitude. At first they chose the spa resort ‘El Paraíso’ in Manzanera, but they soon changed their holiday destination to Viver. The reasons for the change seem clear. In 1914, when the First World War broke out, the Aub-Mohrenwitz family, of Jewish origin, emigrated to Valencia and took up residence there. He enrols at the Luis Vives secondary school, the only secular school in Valencia, where he meets and shares studies with José Gaos, Genaro Lahuerta, Fernando Dicenta, Manuel Zapater... He maintains a deep friendship with all of them throughout his life. Also in exile.    

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HISTORY OF VIVER

Viver de las Aguas

by Cristina Herrero Grimaldos, 1997

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